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Yi County

East China · Anhui · Huizhou ancient villages

Yi County黟县

In Hongcun, the Moon Pond mirrors the white walls and dark-tiled roofs; in Xidi, memorial archways inscribe nearly a millennium of Huizhou merchant history. These two World Heritage villages turn the very meaning of "Huizhou" into something you can see and live every day.

World Heritage SiteHui-style architectureHongcun & XidiPhotographer's paradiseFirst-time China friendly
Yi County
East China · Anhui
Reach via Huangshan North high-speed rail station or Huangshan Tunxi Airport, then take a tourist shuttle bus about 1.5 hours to reach Hongcun.
Best time to visit
Rape flowers and peach blossoms bloom from March to April; Tachuan's red leaves peak October to November. June to July is the rainy season, with slippery, wet conditions.
Recommended 1–2 days
Hongcun and Xidi are in different townships with separate tickets, so plan roughly half a day to a full day for each.
30-day visa-free
NIA · July 2026

Why it's special

Why It's Special

Walk the two syllables of "Hui-style" across two villages that are very much alive.

Situated on the southern slopes of Mount Huangshan, Yi County is one of the core birthplaces of Hui culture. Its two ancient villages, Xidi and Hongcun, were inscribed on UNESCO's World Heritage List in 2000 as "Ancient Villages in Southern Anhui — Xidi and Hongcun." Xidi was first built during the Huangyou era of the Northern Song (1049–1054), nearly a millennium ago; Hongcun was founded in 1131 (first year of Shaoxing, Southern Song) as a settlement of the Wang clan and is now over 800 years old. During the Ming and Qing dynasties, Hui merchants spread across the country, and these "merchants steeped in Confucian learning" brought their wealth home to build the dense rows of grand courtyards that still stand — white walls, black tiles, towering horse-head walls, and finely carved wood, stone, and brickwork, among the most complete surviving evidence of that era. Unlike the natural heritage of Mount Huangshan Scenic Area, what you see here is how people turned the very act of living into architecture and art.

Culture & Heritage

Culture & Heritage

The three wonders of Hui-style architecture: horse-head walls and the three carvings

  • Horse-head walls (stepped gables) are the most iconic symbol of Hui-style architecture — white walls, black tiles, layered tiers serving both fire protection and aesthetics
  • Wood, stone, and brick carvings together form the "Three Carvings of Huizhou," listed in 2006 as a national intangible cultural heritage; they appear throughout beams, lintels, doors, and windows
  • Hongcun's layout is said to follow a "ox shape" plan — the Moon Pond as its stomach, the village water channels as its intestines, and South Lake as its belly — one of the most intact ecological village water systems surviving in China
  • Xidi preserves over a hundred Ming- and Qing-era residences, ancestral halls, and archways; the Hu Wenguang memorial archway at the village entrance is a landmark structure
One Village, One Flavor

One Village, One Flavor

Hongcun's water systems are finely engineered, while Xidi's memorial archways carry a solemn dignity.

  • Hongcun is famous for two water views—South Lake and the Moon Pond; whitewashed walls reflected in the thin morning mist are a classic image every photographer recognizes
  • Xidi is known for its well-preserved Ming and Qing courtyard clusters and narrow lanes—buildings stand denser and carving details are more concentrated here
  • The two villages belong to different townships with separate admission tickets, and driving between them takes tens of minutes—plan them as separate outings rather than rushing both in one day
  • Lukou, about a 10-minute drive from Hongcun, is renowned for its finely carved wooden tower houses and big spring canola fields, often picked by photographers as a "third stop"
Local Flavors

Local Flavors

Hui cuisine is rich in color and oil, prized for its "heavy mastery of fire"

  • Stinky mandarin fish: mandarin fish cured and fermented, then braised — pungent to smell, fresh to taste, and the most famous signature dish of Hui cuisine
  • Hairy tofu: tofu fermented until white mycelium forms, then fried golden on both sides; Yi County's most representative local snack
  • Daobanxiang (knife-board fragrance): cured pork steamed on a wooden knife board, rich yet not greasy, served with local rice wine as a hospitality dish
  • Yi County's "five blacks": local black-toned specialties such as black tea, black tofu, and black chicken, the county's flagship farm-produce concept
Daily Life

Daily Life

Original residents remain, but daily rhythm revolves around the visitors

  • Hongcun and Xidi still have original residents; many old houses that open their doors to guests during the day are also the owners' everyday living space
  • These are essentially "world-heritage tourist villages" rather than residency destinations: crowded during peak season (golden weeks, summer holidays) and comparatively quiet off-season
  • Yi County's county town is very small, with modern amenities (supermarkets, hospitals, chain hotels) concentrated there rather than in the villages
  • Village guesthouses are mostly converted old residences — atmospheric but with poorer soundproofing and bathrooms than modern hotels, so set expectations before choosing

Itineraries

Itineraries

Hongcun and Xidi are two villages, not one day's itinerary—the morning mist over the Moon Pond and the carved ornaments on the archways each deserve their own unhurried visit.

  1. 01

    Xidi · Nanping · Guanlu · Pingshan: A Half-Day Tour of Hui-Style Villages

    Start the morning at Guanlu village on the southwest edge, pass through Nanping's ancestral halls and long lanes on the way to the World Heritage site of Xidi, then head north to Pingshan village to soak up the white walls, dark tiles, and pastoral water-gate scenery of old Hui-style villages.

  2. 02

    Hongcun · Lukou · Tachuan · Mukeng Bamboo Sea: Northern Villages and Mountain Country

    Reach Hongcun, the "village in a painting," in the afternoon—wander the Moon Pond and South Lake, stop at Lukou's carved wooden towers to admire the fine woodwork, then climb to Tachuan for autumn colors and step into the bamboo groves of Mukeng where scenes from Crouching Tiger, Hidden Dragon were filmed.

Coordinates: Tianditu · OpenStreetMap

Don't miss

Don't Miss

Not a checklist of sights, but things worth slowing down to see.

Catch the dawn mist reflections at South Lake and the Moon Pool

Eat & bring home

Eat & Bring Home

Hui cuisine is not especially spicy; it leans heavy on color and oil and prizes careful heat control. The real traps aren't the spice—they're the prices at restaurant rows outside the ticket gates and the "budget tour groups."

Stinky Mandarin Fish
VegetarianMedium–Hard

Fermented tofu and stir-fried seasonal vegetables are passable options, but most signature dishes (stinky mandarin fish, cured pork board, one-pot stew) contain meat, so flag your preference before ordering.

VeganHard

Fermented tofu and vegetable stir-fries are available, but some versions are cooked with lard, so you'll need to ask at each place.

HalalHard

Halal options are very limited both in the village and the county town, so plan ahead or bring your own food.

Spice-averseEasy

Huizhou cuisine is not generally spicy, leaning instead on salty-savory flavors and generous oil, so diners who avoid heat will largely be fine.

Good to know before ordering
  • Huizhou food isn't spicy, but 'heavy oil, heavy color' is no myth—if you prefer light flavors, it may come across as salty and rich.
  • Fermented tofu and stinky mandarin fish are both fermented foods; order a small portion the first time you try them.
  • Restaurants at the village scenic entrance charge noticeably more than those in town, so walking a bit farther pays off.
Both Hongcun and Xidi charge tickets around 100 yuan each (each village sells its own, and online bookings are usually a little cheaper than at the gate). Always check the official current price. Beware of people near the entrance pushing bargain "one-day tours" or "free entry" deals — most are scams or roundabout detours. Book through official channels or trusted platforms, and use licensed taxis or ride-hailing apps.

Good to know

Good to Know

Foreign guests must register their stay in China — show this bilingual card at the front desk or police station.
Getting there
Huangshan North Station (a high-speed rail hub on the Hefei–Fuzhou line) is the main gateway into Yixian. The transfer center just outside has direct tourist shuttles to Hongcun, roughly 1.5 hours away, costing about 30 yuan per person and stopping at Mount Qiyun, Xidi, Pingshan, and other points on route
Huangshan Tunxi International Airport is about an hour's drive from Yixian and is the nearest civilian airport
Yixian's long-distance bus station also runs direct buses to Hongcun, operating roughly from 7 a.m. to 5 p.m. with departures every half hour
Getting around
Hongcun and Xidi lie in different townships with separate admission tickets; the drive between them takes a few dozen minutes, so plan to taxi or hire a car rather than expect seamless public transport
Inside each village, walking is the only option—the stone lanes are narrow and closed to motor vehicles
For nearby villages such as Lucun and Tachuan, take a taxi or hired car; rides usually run 10–30 minutes
Where to stay
Guesthouses inside Hongcun and Xidi: mostly converted from old houses, richly atmospheric, but soundproofing and bathrooms lag modern hotels; fully booked in high season, so reserve ahead
Yixian county town: more modern chain hotels, friendlier prices, and easier transport connections
Scattered rural guesthouses in nearby villages like Lucun and Tachuan suit travelers seeking quieter surroundings
Public security entry-exit window
The entry-exit department of Yixian Public Security Bureau and the local police stations handle foreigner accommodation registration (check the official notice for the exact service window)
Hotels will register you on your behalf at check-in; for guesthouses and short-term rentals, you must register in person at the local police station within 24 hours of arrival
Police number: 110
Medical emergencies
The Yixian County Hospital is the main local medical facility but has limited services; for more serious conditions, head to a top-tier hospital in Huangshan city (Tunxi)
Emergency number: 120
Village pharmacies carry everyday medicines, but it's wise to bring any specialty prescriptions yourself
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Yi County has a subtropical humid monsoon climate with four distinct seasons. June to July is the plum-rain season, when stone lanes turn slippery and mosquitoes multiply; summers are muggy, winters damp and cold but rarely extreme. March–April and October–November are widely regarded as the best times to visit, with early mornings and late afternoons being golden hours for photos and for dodging the crowds.

Reality check

Reality Check

The honest take

If you are after a raw old village untouched by commerce, Hongcun and Xidi cannot deliver—they have matured into near-standardized World Heritage sites. But if you want to understand what it means for Huizhou architecture to 'turn everyday life into art'—how horse-head walls, the three carvings, and water systems have been embedded in an actual village for hundreds of years—few places show it more completely.

Separate admission tickets

Hongcun and Xidi each sell admission separately, with no official combined pass—visiting both means paying for each. Online claims of cheaper 'agent bookings' are of mixed reliability; better to check current prices through official channels or reputable booking platforms.

Golden week and summer crowds

During the May Day and National Day holidays and the summer peak, the main streets and signature photo spots are packed, and the experience suffers noticeably. Avoid holiday peaks, or visit early morning or around dusk.

Touts and unlicensed rides at the village gate

At the high-speed rail station and village entrances, self-styled 'guides' and unmarked cars often solicit business with quotes and promises that do not hold up. Stick to licensed taxis or ride-hailing apps for transport, and book any tour guide in advance through official channels.

Accommodation registration

Hotels handle the stay registration for you. For guesthouses and short-term rentals, you need to confirm they accept foreign guests and complete registration within 24 hours of arrival.

In China, hotels normally complete the stay registration for foreign travelers on your behalf. If you stay in a non-hotel setting—a guesthouse, a friend's home, or a short-term rental—you or your host typically must register at the nearest police station within 24 hours of arrival.

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Is it for you?

Is It For You

👍 You'll love it if you…

  • Has a genuine interest in Hui-style architecture, the three traditional carving crafts, and Ming-Qing era ancient villages.
  • Loves photography and is happy to get up early for morning mist or adjust the itinerary for autumn foliage.
  • Has one to two days and can arrange Hongcun and Xidi on separate days rather than rushing both in a single trip.
  • Wants to combine Mount Huangshan scenic area with the Huizhou ancient villages into one in-depth itinerary.

😟 You might be let down if you…

  • Only has a single day to see both villages, doesn't want to buy separate tickets or add extra travel time between them.
  • Has little patience for heritage sites that feel over-commercialized and formulaic, and wants an unspoiled village with hardly any crowds.
  • Relies on a long-term expat community or coworking vibe — these are short-visit villages rather than a place to settle for months.
  • Cannot accept the thin walls and basic bathrooms typical of guesthouses converted from old houses, and will only stay in modern chain hotels.
If you're staying a while (settling in)Cost of living, rent, climate, remote-work readiness — the long-stay data lives here.

City basics

Inscribed as a World Heritage site
2000 year
Hongcun founded
1131 year (Southern Song dynasty)
Xidi founded
1049–1054 year (Northern Song dynasty)

Housing & prices

  • There is essentially no long-term rental market in the village — most old houses are run as guesthouses or lived in by their original families, so staying long-term basically means negotiating a monthly rate with the guesthouse owner. Real vacancy figures and monthly rent samples are still missing and awaiting first-hand verification.

Remote-work setup

  • There is no coworking space; mobile data in the village and county town and guesthouse Wi-Fi are generally usable, but actual speeds and disconnection frequency await on-the-ground testing — don't expect video-conference-grade stability.

Honest notes

  • Hongcun and Xidi are essentially "world-heritage tourist villages" rather than places to settle down—long-stay amenities (coworking spaces, schools, major healthcare) are almost nonexistent, so you'd depend on Yixian county town or even the city of Huangshan.
  • The two villages charge separate entrance tickets and are a few dozen minutes' drive apart, so seeing both at a good pace in a single day isn't realistic—and in peak season (May Day, National Day, summer break) crowds and guesthouse prices rise noticeably. If you want quiet, visit off-peak or on weekdays.

Daily texture

  • Strengths: the "three wonders" of Hui-style architecture (horse-head walls, three carvings, water systems) are densely concentrated in one area, all visible on foot; the village is still home to original residents, not a fully emptied-out theme park.
  • Weaknesses: long-stay amenities are almost nonexistent, with infrastructure designed for tourists rather than residents; peak season brings heavy crowds, so the "hidden paradise" feel requires actively going off-peak.

Who you'll meet

  • Deep-culture travelers with a genuine interest in Hui-style architecture and the three carving crafts, plus photographers willing to adjust their itineraries for the early-morning mist and autumn red leaves.

Where to next

Where to Next

From Yixian, the Yellow Mountains are right at hand.

Huangshan Scenic Area

Huangshan Scenic Area

One of China's most celebrated mountain destinations, known for its oddly shaped pines, bizarre rock formations, and seas of clouds. It is roughly an hour's drive from Yixian county and usually deserves its own dedicated day or two.

Tunxi Old Street

Tunxi Old Street

A well-preserved Ming-and-Qing-era commercial street in Huangshan city proper, packed with long-established shops selling Huizhou's four treasures of the study and tea houses. It makes a convenient stop on the way to or from Yixian.

Mount Qiyun

Mount Qiyun

One of China's four great Daoist mountains, sitting right along the tourist shuttle route from Huangshan North Station to Hongcun. Travelers interested in Daoist culture—or hoping to dodge the crowds—can easily stop off here along the way.

The villages are best explored on foot, and motor vehicles are not allowed inside. If you plan to hire a car for round trips to Huangshan North Station or Huangshan Scenic Area, note that international driving permits are treated specially under Chinese rules—please read the "Transport" section of the site-level guide before you set off. See the site guide →

Travel responsibly

Travel Responsibly

Travel is not only about enjoying the scenery, but about coexisting with your destination out of respect.

01 | Old houses are heritage, not a set

  • The horse-head walls and the wood, stone, and brick carvings are historic relics—do not touch, carve, or make rubbings of them
  • Some old houses also serve as daily living quarters for local residents; check whether an area is open to visitors before entering
  • Do not climb walls or enter private courtyards that are not open to the public

02｜Respect the daily lives of villagers

  • Hongcun and Xidi are still home to local residents; politely ask before photographing people
  • The water system (Moon Pond, South Lake, water channels) supplies the village's daily needs—do not feed wildlife, litter, or wade into the water
  • Lanes are narrow; keep your voice down when passing by residential doorways

03｜Spend your money with local artisans and farmers

  • When buying craft carvings or tea, choose reputable local shops rather than assembly-line souvenirs at the scenic-area entrance
  • For teas like Huangshan Maofeng, try buying directly from local tea farmers or reputable tea houses
  • Reduce single-use tableware and bottled water—the village's narrow lanes can only handle so much waste